Collar or harness?

Not so long ago I read a good article written by a Finnish dog osteopath about the problems on the neck connected to the using of collars on dogs. Now, to anyone living in areas where having your dog leashed is a must there are limited options on how to attack the least to your dog. It's either a harness or a collar. But how to make a decision? What risks are there when using a collar and how to avoid problems?
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In the article Hanna Kivinen (http://www.koiraosteopatia.fi/tietoa/kaulapanta-vai-valjaat) lists eleven different parts of the dog's neck than can get affected by the use of the collar. The problems are most often caused by a sudden tug or continuing pulling. Possible injuries caused by the tug are similar to those caused by the so called whipslash-effect in car accidents, where the head moves back and forth rapidly and the neck in injured by this. Possible injuries caused by constant pulling are muscle jams, muscle pain and injuries of throat, similar to what happens if a human is choked.

Collars were developed for the very same reason as we have bits for horses; to gain control. Collar is easy to attach, you can make a loop from almost every piece of rope or string and the neck is a sensitive area so the dog reacts to the instructions given via the leash. This, however, does not mean that the dog's neck would be any more adjusted to the wear of the collar than a human neck. It's a common misbelief that a dog has it's neck, muscles, vertebra and throat somehow used to the pressure of the collar. This is not true.  
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Are there safe collars?

One common rule to collars is that is should be about the width of two vertebra at least. It should not be used high up on the throat but lower so any possible injuries of throat can be avoided. The dog should not pull when using a collar and the collar should be snug enough to not jump around but loose enough so it doesn't cause unnecessary pressure and affect breathing. Padded and soft collars are the most easy ones to the throat. They are also the most comfortable ones and great for small puppies, also.

Collars to avoid are choke collars that tighten around the dog's neck without any stop. Martingale collars, or the so called ”half chokers” never get too tight if they are picked and measured properly and from my own experience I can say it also seems to be the most comfortable for my dogs. When there is no pulling, the collar is loose and doesn't choke, and when there IS pulling, the collar can't get too tight around the neck. Normal collars are good also.

I use collars mainly as accessories or when we are in a show or in a place I can be sure the dog is not pulling too much. I use wide collars mainly made from fabric or padded leather to try and avoid any possible injuries. I do use a collar during walks along with a harness so I can take a hold of the collar if I need added physical control. Unfortunately sometimes it is needed, and it's better to hold the dog by the collar than let it run away, for example chasing a prey, and get seriously injured.
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Why would I use harness?

Because it's more ergonomic for the dog, simply put. A good, fit harness is always a better option for the dog than a collar, and despite many people say their dogs dislike the feeling of the harness it's not about the harness itself but about not being used to it's touch. It's the same as with collars and small puppies. Dogs are not born used to collars and they are not born used to harnesses either. Some dogs need more help getting familiar with the sensation that others, but all dogs can be taught to wear a harness.

A good harness sits nicely and tight enough. It should not move around when the dog moves, but it should let the dog breath properly. The pull should concentrate on the chest instead of the throat or neck. There should be no straps going over shoulder plates to allow maximum mobility, no rubbing against armpits and the ring for leash attachment should preferably be more on the back than closer to the neck.  

Pulling and sleighing harnesses have slightly different structure, but they are meant for that; pulling. There are harnesses fit for both, such as the model I use for Ms. Dominance, DC Zero Short, and they are more or less like the described harnesses for general use. They are also pretty good for dogs with deep chest.  You can see from the picture above the harness fits nicely and snug, the chest part is low enough not to press the neck and the leash attachment is pretty far back. The harness is also padded for added comfort.

Another good solution I like is the Swedish sighthound harness that I use for Mrs. Aloofness and Mr. Hyperactivity (seen above), or just plain simple old Y-shape harnesses I have for Mr. Arthritis. The problem with regular Y-harnesses can be that their leash attachment is a tad too close to the neck for my liking. I have never had problems with it, however, since Mr. Arth... ah, so depressing nickname! I have no problems with regular Y-harness because Mr. I-have-arthritis-but-I-am-still-very-active-and-happy-and-lively-dog doesn't pull when leashed and therefore there is no unnecessary pressure.  

Oh, and to answer a question I myself wondered for a long time; can you use regular harness as a pulling/sleighing harness for fun? Well, that is not recommended as pulling harnesses are built for it and they are better distributing the pressure and making sure the pulling feels as comfortable as it can. Regular harnesses are not meant for pulling purposes and they can possibly cause muscle jams if constantly used for that purpose. Much like shoes; you can run with just a regular Converse All Stars, but sneakers are way better for that and it's less likely your legs get sore.