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Kiirehtimisen kulttuuri

8/9/2021

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Sivusin aihetta pari blogipostausta aiemmin puhuessani roduntuntemuksesta ja siitä, että osa koirista tarvitsee aikaa. Koen aiheen olevan kuitenkin niin tärkeä, että se ansaitsee ihan oman postauksensa siitäkin huolimatta, että syksy on taas tehnyt sormistani jäykät ja kipeät. 
Koirat kehittyvät kaikki yksilöllisesti ja omaan aikaansa. Osa koirista on varsin rauhallisia yksivuotiaina, osa on vielä täysin pentuja.

Koirien kehityskaaresta on tehty kaikenlaisia karkeita arvioita suurinpiirteisine ikään liittyvine virstanpylväineen. Yksi tällainen esitellään hankikoira.fi-sivustolla. Pidän tätä itse varsin hyvänä rankana ja suuntaa antavana näkemyksenä. Ensiviikkojen ja murrosiän jälkeen mainitaan koiran olevan yleensä aikuinen n. 2-3 vuoden iässä. Me kuitenkin odotamme usein saumattoman hyvää ja moitteetonta käytöstä jo koiranpennuilta, teinikoirista puhumattakaan. Tämä on epäreilua, typerää ja edesvastuutonta ja johtaa pahimmillaan räikeisiin, jopa väkivaltaan johtaviin turhautumisen ja ahdistuksen tunteisiin. 

6kk iässä sinä opit tunnistamaan äitisi

En voi sanoa tietäväni ihmislapsien koulua edeltävistä ikävuosista aivan valtavasti, mutta tiedän sen verran, että n. puolivuotias ihminen on oppinut tunnistamaan vanhempansa ulkonäköperusteisesti ja äänestä, osaa maata selällään ja osaa jo jotenkuten hallita päänsä liikkeitä. Arvaa, mitä me odotamme tämän ikäisiltä koirilta? Moitteetonta odottamista, hyvää käytöstä, loikkimattomuutta, käskyjen tunnistamista ja noudattamista, hienoa hihnakävelyä, jättämistä, sisäsiisteyttä, laumakäytöksen alkeita ja kontaktia.

On aivan totta, että koirat ja ihminen ovat eri lajia. Koira kehittyy nopeammin. On kuitenkin epäreilua, miten me edellytämme koirilta aikuismaisen hallittua käyttäytymistä niiden vielä käydessä läpi varhaispuberteettiaan. Itse asiassa, osa koirista ei ole vielä edes aloittanut teini-ikäänsä 6kk ikäisenä. Silti me odotamme niiltä jo hyvää itsehillintää ja tottelevaisuutta. 

Osa koiranomistajista ei yksinkertaisesti tunnista koiran kehitysvaiheita. Toinen puoli tunnistaa, mutta ryhmäpaine ja omat odotukset saavat ne unohtumaan. Kovat odotukset sekä ulkopuolisilta että itseltä yhdistettynä pennun/teinikoiran arvaamattomaan käytökseen ja sille täysin luonnollisiin temppuiluihin johtavat turhautumiseen. Turhautuminen taas usein johtaa kiukkuun ja kiukku purkautuu koiraan. Toinen turhautumisen mahdollisista purkautumisteistä on välinpitämättömyys, apaattisuus ja turtuminen - ei jakseta tehdä mitään eikä puuttua mihinkään, koska mistään ei tunnu olevan apua.

Jos kiehuu yli (KUN kiehuu yli)

Jokainen meistä suuttuu ja jokainen meistä turhautuu. On valhetta väittää, etteikö koiranomistajana koskaan löytäisi itseään tilanteesta, jossa kuppi kaatuu, pato murtuu, viimeinen korsi katkaisee naapurinkin kamelin selän ja verisuoni tykyttää otsassa niin, ettei muuta kuulekaan.

Vaatii itsehillintää, ymmärrystä ja osaamista toimia kiihtymyksen alaisena. Meidän on muistettava, että olemme tekemisissä nuoren koiran kanssa ja sitouduttava jaksamaan sitä sen koko koulutusprosessin ajan. Enkä tarkoita nyt sitä, ettei koiralle saisi suuttua. 
On kuitenkin ehdottomasti parempi lähteä suututtuaan hetkeksi rauhoittumaan tai hammasta purren pakottautua rauhalliseksi kuin tuhota luottamusta riehumalla. 

Minulle koiranohjaajana haastavinta, varsinkin omien rotujeni kanssa, on itsehillintä. Ärryn ja lauhdun verrattain helposti, mutta kunnolla suututtuani minulta menee paljon aikaa rauhoittumiseen. Tämä on ongelma, sillä afgaanit ovat henkisesti täysiä pentuja vielä kaksivuotiainakin, osa siitäkin pidempään, mutta kooltaan ne ovat jo aikuisia. Presa canario on painava, voimakas koira jo puolen vuoden ikäisenä. Olen joutunut erikseen opettelemaan itsehillintää ja vaihtoehtoisia toimintatapoja tilanteisiin, joissa tekisi mieli vain huutaa, potkia ja hyppiä tasajalkaa. 

Koira ei ole ikinä syypää siihen kohdistuvaan arvaamattomaan, fyysiseen kuritukseen, oli se tehnyt mitä tahansa. Koiran tekemiset saattavat olla syy kuritukseen, mutta ne eivät ole sille oikeutus. On myytti, hölynpölyä, että koira tarvitsisi kunnon kurinpalautuksen ja riepottelun tehtyään jotakin sopimatonta. Toki sen käyttäytymiseen täytyy puuttua, mutta taitava koiranohjaaja ei tarvitse siihen ylimitoitettua sekoilua. Taito antaa koiralle palautetta tai pakote mahdollisimman vähäeleisesti ja hillitysti ja saada koira tällä tavoin rauhoittumaan on yksi osaavan koiranohjaajan tunnusmerkeistä. 

Jos ei vaan jaksa (KUN ei vaan jaksa)

Apatia ja välinpitämättömyys johtavat toisenlaisiin laiminlyönteihin; koira jää vaille koulutusta, ehkä jopa vaille aktivointia ja liikuntaa. Temppuilevan ja tempoilevan koiran kanssa ei halua lähteä mihinkään, koska se aiheuttaa stressiä ja ketutusta. On helpompaa jäädä kotiin ja sulkea koira vaikka tarhaan, häkkiin tai heittää se pihalle yksikseen. 

On tärkeää ymmärtää, ettei koira osaa olla tarkoituksella rumasti sanottuna perseestä. Se on nuori ja vilkas, ei vielä tiedä eikä jaksa muistaa kaikkea. Se ei opi, jos sen kanssa ei tee. Se ei rauhoitu, jos sen mieli käy ylikierroksilla.

Kaikki koiran kanssa tapahtuva toiminta ei aina ole hauskaa, mutta se on pakko tehdä. Netti on piukassa kursseja, joissa luvataan nopeita tuloksia, tyylikkäät ja mietityt Instagram-postaukset ja kulppeat treenivideot luovat kuvaa siitä, miten onnistunut koiranomistaja on aina iloinen ja hänen koiransa pennusta asti ihan pro niin arjessa kuin harrastuksissa. Tämä valheellinen kiiltokuvamaisuus on toki kaunista ja viihdyttävää, mutta hohdokkuuden ylistämisellä on myös synkkä puolensa; se saa ihmiset ajattelemaan, että kaikki paitsi SUPERRRRRRR KOIRA! on aina merkki epäonnistumisesta. Niinpä siihen superkoiraan pyritään yhä vain nopeammin, yhä vain sokeammin. 

Tosiasiassa iso osa treenistä on kamppailua omaa taitamattomuuden tunnetta vastaan. Jälleen kerran tähdennän, että osaava koiranohjaaja hallitsee mielentilansa ja tiedostaa, koska voidaan tehdä etenevää ja vaativaa treeniä ja koska on vaan parempi nakella palloa. Hän myös ymmärtää, että jos väsymys pikkuhiljaa hiipii jatkuvaksi tunteeksi, korjausliike on tehtävä. Koira ei voi kasvaa tiedostavaksi, oikein toimivaksi aikuiseksi ilman ohjausta. 

Mitä voin tehdä?

Kiirehtimisen kulttuuria vastaan voi taistella vain olemalla kiirehtimättä. Hyväksymällä sen, että etenee mieluummin koiran ehdoilla, ehkä sitten vähän hitaammin, kuin muiden odotusten ja omien odotuksiensa sokaisemana. Se on joskus hirvittävän vaikeaa, mutta se maksaa itsensä takaisin.

Kiirehtimällä ja vaatimalla koiralta liikaa liian nopeasti kuormitetaan koiran mieltä täysin tarpeettomasti. Antamalla koiran kasvaa rauhassa ja ilman turhaa omistajaan kohdistuvaa ahdistusta, pelkoon perustuvaa miellyttämisen tarvetta ja stressiä tuetaan vakaan, itsevarman koira-aikuisuuden syntyä. Pentujen kuuluu hepuloida ja sekoilla, teinikoirien kuuluu kapinoida. Hyväksy se, luovu epärealistisista odotuksista ja iloitse onnistumisista. 

Väitän, että suuri osa kiirehtimisen kulttuurista opitaan harrastuskentän reunalla.
Olisi tärkeää ymmärtää, että virhettömyys ottaa aikaa. On vielä tärkeämpää alleviivata nuorille ja vasta aloittaneille harrastajille, että jokaisen onnistuneen suorituksen takana on satoja, tuhansia toistoja. Jos me itse kiirehdimme ja kasvatamme muita kiirehtimään, teemme karhunpalveluksen koirille. Niiden tulisi olla kaikessa tekemisessä etusijalla. 

Lopuksi, vaikka onkin hyvin paheksuttavaa olla tätä mieltä; liian rajut otteet, jatkuva turhautumisen tunne ja väkivalta kertovat usein siitä, että koiran ominaisuudet ja vaatimukset ja ohjaajan taitotaso eivät kohtaa toisiaan. Tästä syystä olisi ensiarvoisen tärkeää selvittää itselleen, millainen rotu/koira omaan arkeen, omaan osaamiseen ja omaan tekemiseen sopii. Toki itseään voi kehittää ainoastaan ottamalla haasteita vastaan, mutta täysin toisiaan kohtaamattomat vaatimukset ja taidot aiheuttavat vain ja ainoastaan turhautumista.

Ilman opettelua ei opi

Kukaan ei ole seppä syntyessään, Roomaa ei rakennettu päivässä ja tukku muita vanhoja sananlaskuja muistuttavat meitä siitä, että onnistuminen ja hyvät asiat vaativat työtä ja aikaa. Ilman työtä, panostusta, aikaa ja aktiivista opiskelua kukaan ei voi oppia mitään. 

Koiranohjaajalla soisi olevan tervettä halua kehittää itseään. Omien virheidensä tunnistaminen on ensimmäinen askel kohti onnistumista. Se toinen askel on kova ja aktiivinen työ ja itsensä kehittäminen. 

Palkintona kaikesta meillä on toimiva yhteistyö koiran kanssa ja koira, joka haluaa toimia kanssamme omasta vapaasta tahdostaan, koska toiminnasta on sille hyötyä. Meidän on jo aika opetella pois siitä käsityksestä, että koiralla olisi jonkinlainen korkeammalta laskeutuva pyhä tahto toimia kanssamme ilman minkäänlaista itsekästä kannustinta. Myös tämä auttaa pääsemään eroon kiirehtimisen kulttuurista; jos me kaikki ymmärtäisimme, mikä meidän koiraamme motivoi, ehkä me jaksaisimme perehtyä sen motivaation kehittämiseen ja hyödyntämiseen sen sijaan, että olettaisimme yhden sopivan kaikille ja turhautuisimme, kun näin ei ole. 
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Joskus itse kunkin olisi ihan hyvä lysähtää pörröpedille miettimään syntyjä syviä. Ottaa aikaa ja antaa aikaa.
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Two is a pair, three is a pack

15/10/2018

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The saying ”two is a pair, three is a pack” is used sometimes to describe the difference between owning one or two individual dogs and owning three or more dogs that already start to have certain pack behavior. Obviously all dogs interact together the same way, whether they live live alone or in a group, but pack behavior usually kicks in when there are more than two dogs.


Pack behavior refers to behavioral patterns that are usually met in large groups of dogs. These patterns take act in situations like meeting others dogs, hunting, facing danger or alarming. It is said that a pack of dogs let loose, even if they are pet dogs, is more dangerous than a pair of dogs or just one dog.

In Finland we have a saying ”joukossa tyhmyys tiivistyy”. It means you are never as stupid alone than you are in a group. Group members easily adopt behavior from others in the group, and this leads to certain behaviors becoming easily escalated. If one member of the pack is nervous, that feeling reflects to others more easily than it would if there would be just two dogs. Aggression escalates quickly, and so does the hunting behavior. It takes one of the pack to start hunting, and the rest will follow. This leads to problems if the dogs are loose and they decide instead of playing with a small dog they will now HUNT the small dog. Same happens if the pack escapes and ends up harassing lambs or other farm animals, or even people.

Dogs that live in a pack form a hierarchy based on each individual and their character. No matter certain roles may change depending on the situation, it is interesting to see how each member of the pack will usually follow the role it was set to have and in many cases even chose itself. Genders have different roles in the pack, and age plays a bigger part in interactions. Balanced leaders will act firm and friendly, while those lower in the hierarchy often clown around and get away with such ridiculous behavior more easily than the ones leaders may seem as ”possible future challengers”.

Alarming is one interesting feature I noticed changed significantly when I had a pack. Instead of one or two dogs each barking, a pack now seems to have different roles. When one dog alarms, others will instantly run to the one alarming and try to see the threat. The leader will then decide whether or not the threat is worth noticing. If so, it will take a dominant posture, hold it’s tail up and stare, approaching the threat if it can, while others keep alert, keep barking and follow the leader. If the leader at any point relaxes, others will eventually follow or their attitude will change from nervous and aggressive to curious, playful or indifferent. Lowest in hierarchy might even stay away from the situation, because it trusts the ”higher ups” will care for everything.

When having a pack of dogs, it’s important to focus on leading the pack rather than trying to lead every individual dog. This means you need to know what causes certain behavior, and if you need to command the leading dog or leave that dog be and instead find the ”weak link” that feeds negative behavior of the whole pack. Correcting or controlling the alarming dog will not do anything, if the leading dog keeps on signaling we need to stay alert. On the contrary, if one dog is nervous about a situation, working with that individual dog will solve the whole problem while trying to calm the whole pack down each time it gets nervous makes no difference. In a pack one dog’s behavioral issue is EVERY DOG’S behavioral issue.

Introducing a new family member


Bringing a new dog to the pack can be frightening. What if the dogs don’t accept each other? Let’s say it here in the beginning; it is a possibility. However, you can work with issues, and in most cases that helps. In some other cases you might have to separate the dogs in one way, at least partially and at least sometimes, but even that is not the end of the world. Usually things go smoothly, and sooner or later your new dog will be part of the pack or form a good working pair with the first one.

Introducing a puppy is always way easier than introducing an adult dog. Keep this in mind during all this rescue boom. Rescues can make super pets and form super packs, but there are more risks with adult rescued dogs you might not know a lot about than with puppies. Most well socialized dogs are instinctively more forgiving and gentle with puppies. This is not something to be taken as an opinion against rescue dogs, but a thing to keep in mind. The dog has, in worst case, gone through nasty things. Being prepared for possible problems may save the dog from further bad experience and guarantee a safe start for it.

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Know your previous dog/dogs. If you have a nervous dog or an unsocial dog, introducing the newcomer in small steps is usually the best option. Ideal would be to meet the new dog a couple of times before it moves in.

Collect all ”treasures” away. Very important objects might not be up for sharing just yet. After all, your dogs just met.

Going for a walk together and introducing the dogs on a neutral ground works better than bringing the pup/the dog straight to the other one’s territory. A possibility to give the new dog a safe, calm place to sleep it’s first nights is also beneficial. If others are constantly trying to get to know it, it might stress both them and the new one (and vice versa, if the newcomer doesn’t leave the old dog alone).

What if problems occur?


Don’t let the old dog jump on the eyes of the newcomer, and don’t let the newcomer boss around the old dog. You are the authority making sure everyone feels safe and sound. Old fashioned ”leadership tricks” like rolling the dog on it’s back work only with soft dogs, and they are not based in any scientific or species related information. In the case of independent dogs and dominant dogs things like this can make the situation worse or the dog may even turn on you. The most important thing, however, is that nothing is taught this way. The effect is based on fear, not respect, and it works only with you and the dog, not to improve the situation between dogs. This is seen in many cases where people use rolling the dog on it’s back, for example, to correct it’s dominant behavior. The dog may then act OK with the human, but still bully in the pack. Nothing was taught, the problem and the source for the behavior still remains. One visible side effect was removed, that’s it.

The right way to deal with possible friction between the dogs is to teach and encourage the right kind of pack behavior and to correct the dog behaving badly. How do you correct a dog like that? Well certainly not rolling it on it’s back. Physical corrections should always be used to either get the attention of the dog so you can command it to leave, stay or calm down, or to restrain the dog from harming or harassing another living being. Teaching the right kind of behavior is as important as stopping the unwanted behavior. The problem with ”The Leadership Theory” is that is doesn’t teach the dog anything, it focuses on stopping certain behavioral patterns. Smart dogs might get what you are trying to say, while nervous, aloof, dominant and temperamental dogs usually don’t.

Positive reinforcement and working with the dog’s aggression and insecurities usually lead to a dog that can to certain point work and live in a pack, while some dogs never become pack animals.

Keep your head cool. ”Be the boss of your dogs and all goes well!” is something you will hear if your dogs are not friends at once. While there is half the truth in that, be careful with how you acquire that position of authority, and remember; weak nerve structure will cause problems whether or not you are ”a boss”. Not all dogs are balanced, and aggressive dogs are aggressive dogs. It is dangerous to assume everything depends on how you raise the dog or socialize it. Always go for mentally balanced dogs, or then be prepared to work with those that have more complicated nerve structure.

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Don't be too afraid to add another dog to your pack. Knowing your current dogs and your own resources is the key to success. Another thing to ease a troubled mind; most dogs are pack animals. They might not be super social, but most get along at least with the member of opposite gender. For the majority of dogs having another dog in the family is the funniest, most awesome thing they have ever had happening. After all, we are ONLY human. There are some things only other dogs get, ya know.  
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Commercial puppy food - a necessity or something to avoid?

4/10/2018

1 Comment

 

As long as there have been people feeding commercial foods to their. dogs there has been a debate of whether or not puppy food is good for your puppies. Those in favor say puppy food is a necessity, it has all the needed vitamins and minerals in a perfect, scientifically proven balance. Those against say puppy foods are not only unnecessary but even harmful for your puppies.


First, we need to understand what is puppy food. What makes puppy foods differ from adult foods or foods meant for all life stages? Why were puppy foods developed the first place?

Just like with us people, little puppies need more protein and in general more balanced diet than adults. Big food companies tend to recommend using their puppy formulas, but as one goes through the ingredient list, one big question arises; there is a difference, but it is minimal. Is it really necessary to feed puppy/junior formula, if there is no real difference between the foods?

Let’s take an easy road here and compare RC Adult Maxi Puppy with RD Adult Maxi (as RC has all the % in their PDFs easy to access). This is NOT to be seen as a recommendation OR a critic). You can click yourself into an in-depth site about the foods yourself and have a peek.

http://pro.royalcanin.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/Click-here-to-download-the-Maxi-Adult-Pro-Technical-Sheet.pdf

http://pro.royalcanin.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/Click-here-to-download-the-Maxi-Junior-Pro-Technical-Sheet.pdf

Let’s see the first paragraph. There is no significant important difference.  Omegas are a bit higher in adult food.

Second paragraph lists minerals. As puppy foods are often said to have more calcium than adult foods and a different calcium-phosphorus ratio, it is pretty surprising to see there is absolutely no difference in calcium and not any kind of significant difference in calcium-phosphorus ratio. As we go lower on the list, we’ll see pretty much the same list on both sides, with a slight raise in iodine and iron in the puppy food.

Next paragraph of vitamins shows no surprise; almost the exact copy. Vitamin A is slightly higher in puppy formula, and even there we don’t really speak about anything major.

There is one ingredient in the whole list of ingredients that appears only in puppy formula; lutein. Lutein is an antioxidant found in spinach, broccoli and eggs, for example, and it affects eyes and skin. RC Maxi Junior has 5mgs of lutein per kg, so 0,5 mgs per 100 g (just to give you a general idea of the amount, one egg contains 0.1 to 0.3 milligrams of lutein).

At least in the case with RC Maxi Adult and RC Maxi Junior the difference between formulas is so insignificant it breaks a question; does a puppy really benefit significantly of puppy food? For research purposes, I compared yet another two common foods that offer both puppy and adult formulas. Hill’s Junior Large breed differed the most from Hill’s Adult Large breed, but the changes were still very minor. Most changes were with minerals such as copper and in the increased (slightly) amount of vitamin A, while calcium-phosphorus ratio remained the same and protein and fat levels were not that far from each other. Other vitamins than the mentioned A are about if not exactly the same.

In Acana Puppy Large and Acana Adult Large the difference is ridiculously small. It is in fact so small the ingredients lists are almost completely exactly the same, and the changes in them, while they appear are hardly noticeable.

So, all in all, we can right here in the beginning come into conclusion that puppy formula is so close to adult formula feeding adult formula to puppies MOST LIKELY doesn’t affect them negatively. But, once again, I am no nutritional expert nor do I recommend using this blog as an ultimate truth. Research, talk to people, make your own decisions.

Is puppy food harmful to the puppies?


​This question raises up specially among large breed owners and breeders. The issue is, there are people saying feeding puppy formula to their puppies made the puppies grow too fast, causing abnormalities in bone structure. Some people and even vets say the exact opposite; that feeding adult formula will cause bone growth issues.

First suggested reason to puppy food causing problems with growth is that puppy food has too much calcium. At least in large food formulas I researched, this was not true. There was no more calcium in puppy foods or in adult foods and the ratio between calcium and phosphorus remained the same.

Another possible reason is too much protein. Once more, I did not see a significant raise in protein, however puppy foods do tend to have slightly more protein. This is because puppies need protein to grow.

I asked a question in a raw food group I am in, wanting to know if giant breed owners or breeders have or have not fed puppy formulas, if they have used kibble or raw, and if they have noticed abnormalities. Out of 6 people answering, one person said two puppies fed with raw food (the breeder did not identify whether the food was constructed by the owner or if it was store bought complete raw food) had developed abnormalities in bones. Four people said they had fed their puppies mostly with raw, some self constructed and some with MUSH Vaisto Puppy, and they had not met problems. One person said she had fed her puppies with both raw and kibble (she identified the kibble as puppy formula) and the puppies had grown up OK.

This leads me to think, if the problem with fast growth is both genetic and caused by feeding errors. You can make a difference in general to the dog’s life with a good diet, but there are things you can’t control. You can also break a perfectly healthy dog with a poor diet. So, it is very difficult to say whether or not, in cases where abnormalities form, the main cause is genetic, wrong kind of exercise, accident or feeding. One thing to note is that abnormalities are usually met with very large/giant breeds. This leads to another possible situation; large dogs may just be so big they are getting too big for their own structure. 

One thing one can possibly say quite safely is that excessive/too little calcium and poorly constructed diet cause problems with growth. Puppies are much less forgiving with feeding than adults. When you feed your pup with raw food, make sure you really meet all the requirements. If you choose to go with kibble or 50 / 50, always go for a good quality kibble. If it is puppy formula or adult formula most likely does not matter.

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Teach your dog to be socially clever

2/4/2018

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Socializing your puppy is probably the most important thing you can do. Many of new puppy owners will focus on simple tricks such as sit, stay, down when they get their puppy, and it is very true that it's easy to train a small puppy. The most important thing to focus in, however, is making the dog familiar with this surrounding world we live in and all the weird stuff it is supposed to tolerate without stress when it gets younger.

​Breeders should do the basic sozialicing before the pups even leafe their mother's side. Getting the pups outside to smell fresh air (if the weather and temperature allows it) and getting them used to different surfaces is very important when raising a litter of pups. Meeting people before moving to one's own family is also important. If the family has other, vaccinated, familiar dogs living in the house, meeting and playing with them is also very beneficial to the pup.

The thing to remember by the new owner is that no matter how much the breeder does work with the pups, the main work is left to the new home. The timing is also crucial, since from 3 weeks old to 12 weeks old is the phase the pup is most open to new things. It is called the socialization stage, and meeting as many people as possible and going to as many safe places as possible is the most effective at this stage. After this the pup will become a little less open to new things and warming up slows down. It may also start to have surrealistic fears, which is perfectly normal but may make meeting new people and getting accustomed to new places less effective and more stressful. The fear stage will pass eventually, but if one skips the early socialization and waits until the fear stage is over one misses the most sensitive weeks of learning in the beginning. That may have later negative effects on how the dog sees the world.
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How to develop social skills of your puppy


Pups don't get their perfect vaccinations until 12 weeks or after. This means the pup is not welcome to most dog happenings and you should also be wary with meeting strange dogs in general. However, meeting familiar, friendly dogs you know are vaccinated and taken care of is not only possible but also adviced. This way the pup learns how to behave with other dogs. It has learned basics of this in a litter box with it's mother and siblings and possible other dogs of the breeder's family, but developing these skills with new safe friends is always beneficial.

Be sure that the dogs the pup meets are friendly. The time of getting to tolerate unfriendly dogs is not at this point. The pup needs to meet balanced dogs, so they can show balanced way of behaving.

Meeting new people is crucial too. Some breeds are more aloof than others, some pups are friendly from the start. Mixing shyness with aloofness is very common. A shy dog shows excessive amount of calming signals and stress when it meets new people. Aloof pup just simply ignores the new people or monitors them from afar at first. Wary dogs don't want to come near new persons in the beginning and may show signs of, well, being wary when they approach them, but this passes eventually as the pup learns these people are of no threat.

No matter there is a clear difference between being aloof and wary and being shy and having bad nerves, it is a fact that wary, aloof breeds are more prone to become nervous, shy and unsocial if they lack sozialication. This is why one needs to put some extra work in sozialication if one takes in some of these breeds or dogs.

Taking the pup to experience different types of surfaces or at least making sure it gets to know them at home will pay back later when the pup needs to walk calmly in concrete, grass, steel, asfalt, stone, sand. One can also train the pups ability to ignore moving surfaces by building small unstable platforms that are safe for the pup to investigate. Some pups go on these platforms themselves, some might need encouraging, but a small pup is easy to train if it's nerves are good. If they are not, it takes more time and effort to train the dog and one needs to be careful not to pressure the pup too much. This can also happen with strong, brave pups, but they can take more than their nervous counterparts.

The last thing to think is if there is a mall or some sort of a market place filled with people you can take your pup to. Make sure you have good leash and harness/collar, and make sure not to leave your pup too alone. Don't protect it too much, either. Carrying it around in your lap the whole time doesn't really teach it to face this environment by itself. Getting to see these loud, crowded places is essential for example hobby, working and show dogs who are supposed to be able to relax in these environments when they are older. It is beneficial for the others, too. ​

Tolerating variety


Dogs are slaves of the routine, and if adult certain color people of certain sex are the most they meet, they can act stressed and wary, even scared among other kinds of people. Dogs don't understand our social norms and what is considered polite and what is not. They will bark at disabled people, people that talk differently, people that are of different color they are used to, kids, elders, if they are not taken to meet them and be properly socialized.

One common mistake to do when raising a pup is bad socialization. Many people don't understand just how much it may take to make your dog experience new places and people and other dogs without fear and stress. This doesn't mean going to the market once or playing with neighbor's kids. This means meeting as many different people in as many different places as one just possibly can without putting too much stress on the puppy. After all, we live in a very odd world in the eyes of the dog. Many of the things we expect from our dogs is against their nature, and therefore we must train and help them to understand what we expect of them.

For some reason it is a trend within young people these days to ”hate kids”. These young people take in dogs and may be heard stating their dog ”doesn't like kids because I don't xD She isn't used to kids.” That is a poor excuse. As poor as that of parents, who are fearful of dogs, raising their kids to fear dogs, too.

As an owner you have certain responsibilities and one is making your dog understand these small, weird human looking creatures that may walk in all fours or make odd noises are not to be seen as a threat. It is not optional, it is a must in today's society, whether or not one likes or dislikes children. If you don't have kids in your family or your friends don't have kids, make sure to take your pup near playgrounds, schools and other places where you are allowed to go with dogs and you are most likely to meet children. Tell those children how to meet your puppy, and let your puppy experience them. 


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Also remember that tolerating is not the same thing as liking. Your dog doesn't need to like kids any more than you do, but neither of you can go snapping at kids just because they are kids. You can teach your dog to take space and go away when it is bored and tired of children, and as an owner you must then make sure the children, in return, let your dog be alone. 

Mr. Hyperactivity and Ms. Dominance love children and they are very eager to play with them, poke them, sniff them and lick them. Mrs. Aloofness could care less, Mr. Arthritis doesn't really prefer kids either. Both of the latter know how to take their own space when they get tired. Mr. Arthritis may sometimes forget that, since his is a nervous, stressed character, and in that case I as his owner have to tell him to leave, go somewhere to lay and calm down. Stress is a poor excuse that he would go around snapping at children. That is not to be tolerated and I need to make sure he is of no threat.

In return, if you are a parent, teach your children to leave strange dogs alone and respect dog's own space. 

The most unnatural situation for dogs and kids alike is when the dog is tied for example in front of a shop, it is alone, and unfamiliar kids go to pet it. In this situation the dog, even the one that knows how to give space, doesn't have any means to escape. Things can escalate, and therefore teach your children to stay away from strange dogs and always ask permission to near them. 

Also don't tie your dogs in front of shops alone. ​
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Natural or artificial sources of vitamins?

7/3/2018

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Rawfeeding has always been like a gold mine to supplement producers. Many rawfeeders believe in the power of vitamin jars and there are claims made to convince people that you can never achieve the required amounts with feeding. Since I disagree to a certain level, I will explain in depth what I feed, how that meets the requirements, and what I need to add from a jar.
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​When I started raw feeding first time years ago, I was very lenient with ingredients. I went with ”three different meats in a week”, added some veggies to that and liver every now and then, and that's it. When I started again after having a pause because of personal health issues and extremely lowered energy levels, I asked a friend to construct me a diet and then went with that.

I noticed certain changes in dogs that were positive, but there were some issues still I thought I wanted to fix. I started learning the matter more, asked some opinions from people who teach raw feeding, read posts made by self-proclaimed gurus, and finally came up with our current style.

I'm a strong believer in natural ingredients and that no animal is constructed so that it can't get what it needs from it's natural diet. Dogs are carnivore with some omnivore potential, and their genetics are not that different from that of wolves. This is also proven by the fact dogs and wolves can produce offspring that can further breed successfully. Dogs are NOT wolves, neither were they developed from the wolf species living in forests today, but even so many of their dietary requirements are similar.

Needs 


​As I listed before in a longer post, there are certain needs one needs to keep in mind when constructing a proper raw diet.

The most important vitamins A, D and E, all fat soluble, are ones the dog can't produce itself and it needs from it's diet. From minerals, calcium, if you can't feed bone, is a must, and so are zing and iodine. However iodin is needed in such ridiculously small amounts that feeding seaweed every now and then during a week meets the needs just fine. Therefore we don't list it here, though one has to keep in mind it is a needed supplement, no matter you go far with just 1 gram.

Vitamin A : dog needs 25 mcg / kg
Vitamin E: dog needs 0,5 mg / kg
Vitamin D: dog needs 0,3 mcg / kg

Calcium : dog needs 60 mcg / kg
Zinc : dog needs 1 mg / kg (optimum is often said to be 2 mg / kg)

We will use Ms. Dominance as an example here, because she eats about 500 to 600 grams a day depending on how much we are exercising. During winters 500 g seems to be enough, during our most active summer months I give her more if she seems like she's needing it. Let's now go with 500 grams, just for the simplicity. Also to be noted here, we have "different diet" days about twice or thrice a week, where I may boost some ingredients and tone down the others. These boost days are to balance out the overall diet, mainly the vitamin A and vitamin D.

We now know Ms. Dominance, using our numbers above and calculated by her weight, needs:

Vitamin A: 600 mcg
Vitamin E: 12 mg
Vitamin D: 7,2 mcg
Zinc: 24 mg
Calcium: about 1,4 grams
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Her current daily diet consists of 250 grams of pork/beef minced meat that has 5% of liver in it, 125 grams of grounded whole salmon, 125 grams of turkey and about 20 – 30 grams of vegetables. Weekly she eats about two whole eggs, and also during two days the total of 100 grams of herrin fillets. She gets added 15 ml of sunflower oil a day, along with 5 ml of rapeseed oil also served daily.

In 250 grams of pork/beef minced meat there is

Vitamin A: 42,25 mcg
Vitamin E: 1mg
Vitamin D: 0,75 mg
Zinc: 9 mg

In 125 grams of minced turkey there is

Vitamin A: 16,25 mcg
Vitamin E: 0,875 mg
Vitamin D: 0,875 mcg
Zinc: 3,25 mcg

In 125 grams of grounded whole salmon there is

Vitamin A: 3,875 mcg
Vitamin E: 1,75 mg
Vitamin D: 6,5 mcg (minimum)
Zinc: 0,375 mcg

In 12,5 grams of pork liver there is

Vitamin A: 1900 mcg
Vitamin E: 0,06 mg
Vitamin D: 0,11 mcg
Zinc; 0,9 mcg

From oils she gets

Vitamin E: 9,33 mg + 2,8 mg

Let's do some maths and add the numbers from all our ingredients together and compare them to the minimum needs of the day.

Total of 1962 mcg of vitamin A. Requirements are more than met.
Total of 15,8 mg of vitamin E. Requirements are met.
Total of 8,2 mcg of vitamin D. Requirements are met.
Total of 13,525 mg of zinc. Requiremens are NOT met.

So, by far we have succesfully debunked the myth of natural ingredients being unable to meet the needed vitamin requirements. Now, of course one needs to remember minimum is not the same thing as optimal, but maximum is not the same as optimal either. More is not more, necessarily, when it comes to vitamins. Fat soluble vitamins also gather in the body, so it's not necessary to meet the needs daily, as long as the longer over all picture is balanced. I tend to fill the minimum needs every day, but during some days we might skip some ingredient just for the change. When the over all diet is in balance, changes like this don't affect the dog in any negative way.

Vitamin E is a vitamin that is needed in greater amounts the more fat there is in the food and the more the dog exercises, so it's the only vitamin that could be given as a supplement. However, some studies show that vitamin E supplements have been linked to cancer. Adding vitamin E from natural sources is safer than adding it from the bottle. In supplements, should one need to add them to the diet, natural sources are a must. Artificial vitamin E does not work or absorb as well. I have not added any extra vitamin E till this day, but if it seems that some of the dogs would need it, I shall try a supplement with natural vitamin E.

Hobby dogs, as well as very active people, need more than us ”regular folks”.

With vitamins A and D requirements are easily met in a balanced diet. Herrin fillets work as a boost for vitamin D twice a week, vitamin A is high enough not to need any boosting at all. Dogs are able to discharge up to 60% of vitamin A they eat, and therefore from any commercial kibble, for example, you get far more than the required amount of vitamin A. It is often used as a preservative, mostly because it's relatively harmless even in big amounts (to dogs at least). Even so, I tend to keep one or two days completely free from liver a week, just to even things out. As said earlier, with fat soluble vitamins this is possible.

Zinc, by far, is the only mineral needing a boost. Calcium amounts are more than met if you use products with bone, but as I do not and the salmon grounded with bones is just and just there, I usually add a touch of calcium powder just to be extra sure.

Since the amount of zinc is lower than the minimum is, I use two tablets of good quality zinc product for pets, adding the total of 30 mgs of zinc. This means the total amount of zinc will raise from about 13,5 mg to 43,5 mg. That is pretty much exact the optimal. The reason why most sources recommend zinc to be added in relatively high amounts when raw feeding is because zinc doesn't absorb so well and it absorbs even less the more fiber there is in the diet.

So, with all above it is pretty safe in my mind to say that you CAN meet the dietary requirements with a proper diet. The fact we often can't fill the need of zinc is that we give meat and maybe bone, but not the whole animal. In whole prey there would be a lot more zinc, too. However, adding zinc is usually very beneficial for any dog, and as long as one doesn't go over the recommendations mentioned in the jar, it is also safe. The same can't be said with fat soluble vitamins. You can't really cause an overdose with feeding, unless you feed terrible amounts of liver a day, but you can pretty easily cause problems with careless use of supplements.

More is not more. More is dangerous if you don't know what you are doing. 
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Why to construct a proper, diverse diet rather than lean on supplements only?


​As said above, it is safer. You can't poison your animal with proper diverse diet unless you feed your dog terrible amounts of liver daily. It is very easy, however, to cause poisoning with supplements.

As said before, some studies have linked vitamin E supplements to cancer. Whether or not one thinks the dog needs some vitamin E boost, always consult your vet if you are unsure. Same goes with vitamin D. Vitamin D is, indeed, very important for any dog, but something to remember is the symptoms of vitamin D poisoning are very severe and highly similar with those of a dog poisoned with ratsbane. There is a reason for that; the poison causes critical vitamin D overdose. So, it's not really a supplement to play with. If you are not 100% sure your dog needs a supplement like that, I'd suggest constructing a diverse diet or feeding 50 / 50 rather than just buying a jar of supplement and throwing some pills in the food.

No matter most people choosing to prepare their dog's meals themselves try their best to build a good diet, some rawfeeders have adopted a very simply way of doing things. I have heard and ever read that many people choose minced pork/beef and just add supplements to that, and to me it breaks the basic idea of constructing a natural diet. There is hardly any natural to add pills from many different jars or feeding the one and the same meat with the excuse of ”I add all the dog needs from bottles”. This might be true, but the diet itself is not that much more natural and organic than feeding kibble. It's just changing the dry ingredients to a meat bough from a trusted source. The added artificial stuff is still there.

This is obviously my own opinion and in no way I am educated enough to tell anyone they are feeding their dogs WRONG. I am simply challenging the idea of being lazy and choosing to use chemicals rather than paying some attention in the ingredients because I think going as natural as possible with as many good quality products as possible is the basic idea of constructing your dog's diet yourself. Whether or not you cook the meat or give it raw, feeding balanced, diverse diet prepared from quality natural ingredients is healthy and tasty, and you can't accidentally cause any lethal overdose.

I used to go about saying even the simplest raw diet is better than commercial kibble. I don't think like that anymore, but I highly recommend thinking about preparing your dog's food yourself. If you can't go all the way full custom mode, prepare one meal a day. If you choose to go all for it, remember to consult some professionals and be critical. The information is out there, and most raw feeders are eager to tell how they do their thing.

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OK. So what are those quality ingredients, then?


Excellent question.

In Finland our meat producers are very controlled, meats are often free from salmonella or other sorts of malicious bacteria and it's relatively easy to find good sources for preparing a proper diet. However, I am aware in many countries this is far more difficult. I'd suggest always asking the source of the meat or buying straight from the butchers you know to handle their animals and products properly. You can also buy products meant for people, if their quality is better regulated.

When searching for the right meat, stay away from leftovers. Specially with salmon it is fairly common to ground only the heads, fins and bones, the leftover parts in other words, after the precious meat has been removed. Unfortunately the meat is exactly the thing that has all the good stuff! Grounded bones and heads have little to no vitamin D and they are good mainly for adding calcium and adding some oil, as products like this can sometimes be rather oily. I suggest going for grounded whole salmon, meaning the whole fish was used, meat and bone alike. This way all the good stuff is there.

Minced meats should always have meat in them. If the product consists mainly of lungs and trachea, it doesn't really include anything. Make sure the meat you use has meat, not only leftover parts. The more, the merrier.

The last thing I want to mention are oils. If possible, use cold pressed oils. They are darker in color and also have more vitamin E left. You need less to achieve the same results. Using oils rich in vitamin E, like sunflower oil and the way more expensive but excellent wheat germ oil, is more beneficial than using large amounts of lighter oils since this also means you need more E as there is more fat. 

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Walk the mind

26/1/2018

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I decided to attack this matter not because I think most people don't walk their dogs but because sometimes it seems to me walks are not seen neither beneficial or important to the dog. I am sure all of us have heard ”5 minutes running free is worth 30 minutes walking in the leash” by now, but is it so? What does just a regular old walking in the leash give to the dog and why every dog would benefit going for a walk every day?
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Recently I wrote a post about the importance of exercise, and after that the importance of calming down. In both posts I mention walking being something that isn't exactly physically exhausting, but more so mentally stimulating.

Dogs are animals that like to travel. Wild dog packs walks around their territory daily in search of food. This is natural behavior for the dog. No matter a domestic dog living in the family doesn't have to search for it's food around the town it still has the factory built need to travel if it's given the chance. They sniff around, mark their path, stop to stare where ever they saw something interesting. World with all it's things and smells and sounds is like an amusement park to them.  
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​All those smells!

Googling dog's sense of smell gives you many kinds of results on how much better dogs can smell things than people. Because of that I don't give any specific numbers but simply state the obvious; dog's can smell way better than people and their sense of smell is their most important sense. Some scientists even say while people see dreams, dogs would actually SMELL dreams. I don't know about that, but I do know my dogs really enjoy sticking their nose everywhere.

Smells matter more to dogs than anything else. Sighthounds rely on their sight while they hunt and they are more prone to investigate things they see than my non-sighthound dogs, but every dog trusts it's nose as it's most important sense. Smells even have a very important part in their social life. They smell each other to have an idea of who the other is. They smell strange people. They smell odd things they know nothing agout. They go snout first wherever they go, because their nose tells them more than any other sense they have.

While walking the dog meets a whole new world of smells. While free running preferably in open space answers to the need of exercise and while dogs stop to smell things even then, travelling forward and smelling the messages of other dogs, tracks left by prey animals and whatever the surroundings have to offer stimulate the mind in a whole another level. Based on my experience it also calms the dog down and makes it react better to for example training later. Sniffing all that information in and processing it's meaning and source calms the dog's mind. It has to focus. Letting the dog use it's nose in this way often helps the most energetic dogs to be a little less excited about everything all the time.

Just like with people, dogs like to experience things. While some people, like me, would enjoy hours after hours just laying on bed and staring out of the window, most would eventually get bored. This is exactly what happens with dogs, also. They get bored. They like to experience things. Walking to new places gives the dogs something to do. All the best if after the walk they can let out some steam by running!

While meeting other dogs and people during walks may not be that social, just passing them by, those meetings still stimulate the mind. Dogs are able to figure out many things about the passing by group by just sniffing the air or walking along their tracks to where they came from. These wild, unexpected encounters are interesting and one can often see the dog tense up and get excited when it smells the tracks of another dog. Whenever they find a place that holds many messages by other dogs, it's like visiting a very active forum. Let them sniff it out and maybe answer some date invites. It's not like they (usually) lead to any ACTUAL dates.

If you have a playful dog and just happen to meet another playful, social dog, maybe they can share a play (if the owners agree, obviously). This too adds to the effect of enriching the dog's mind when walking.  
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Travellers

Like said before in this very same post, dogs are travellers. While they are not wolves, they still share their need to travel, mark their territory and check for any possible messages left by other packs and dogs.

Answering the dog's needs as a dog is equally if not even more important than answering it's needs as a member of a certain breed. Dogs are first of all dogs, second of all dogs from a certain breed/breed mix and third of all individuals. Filling the needs of a dog helps to understand the extra needs of a dog from the breed Italian Greyhound, and when you know the needs of a dog that is an Italian Greyhound you are less likely to miss the individual needs of Max, the Italian Greyhound. These needs obviously overlap, but it's important to understand we can't fill the needs of Max if we don't understand that Max is an Italian Greuhound, and we can't understand what is an Italian Greyhound if we don't know what is a dog.

This leads us back to travelling. Dogs like to travel, experience the world and it's smells. Even if you let your dog run on the same field or yard every day hours straight if it can't travel and sniff new things, that need is never fulfilled. If the dog is exercised and trained and it's mind is stimulated, it can still be a happy dog!

But would a walk ADD to it's life? Yes, it would.   
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Training tools – what to use and what to avoid

12/6/2017

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Let's talk about the process of learning first.

Learning is something that happens whether we like or not. It is essential for any living being that has to react to it's surroundings or interact with other beings, may them be of the same species or not. Learning is evolution's way of trying to keep us alive.

When we, or any other being, learn, we connect certain things together. When you touch fire, it burns. You will learn to avoid touching the fire to prevent getting burned. When we learn to read, we learn meanings of small individual markings first. We connect them together until we manage to read. We learn to read because it is beneficial for us. It leads to better understanding of our surroundings as well as earns us a praise. For a child, or for a dog, a praise itself can work as a motivation. The benefit they gain is affection and appreciation that leads to satisfaction.

So, learning is connecting things together because of benefit. We either learn to avoid certain things to spare us from something nasty or we learn to do something or remember something to gain a prize, whatever that prize way be. The most important thing to remember is that in order to learn one must do things. A passive being does not learn.
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​Negative and positive reinforcement

These terms are often used when talking about training. They both aim for teaching the dog a certain habit, a certain way to act. Negative reinforcement uses punishment of some sort to show the dog what it does is wrong. It creates something nasty or unpleasant or frustrating that teaches the dog it must avoid certain way of behaving in order to prevent the nasty thing from happening. Positive reinforcing will praise the dog when it does right and teach the dog doing something or stopping from doing something gains it a prize.

Both these types of reinforcing work, but positive reinforcement is proven to be more effecting when teaching a new way to behave, whilst negative reinforcement works mostly when the dog must stop a certain learned habit. Using negative reinforcement can cause apathy, and a dog that does not work and try in order to see what it's expected to do can't learn. Fear blocks learning. That is why a dog should never be afraid of punishment, surroundings or anything around when trained. It must be comfortable and calm enough to concentrate.

Negative reinforcement is something to be used with caution and never by inexperienced handler who doesn't know what to do. Then again, no dog can go through it's life without facing negative reinforcement. When the pup tugs in a leash and hurts it's neck, it learns by negative reinforcement that one should not speed around when leashed (or then it doesn't, and continues doing it for the delight of the desperate owner). When the handler must hold the dog in place to calm it down, it learns by negative reinforcement acting like crazy will cause holding it down. By avoiding too rough play it gains freedom.

No matter negative reinforcement has it's place and time, for the reasons listed above it's something to be very cautios about when teaching the dog something. Negative reinforcement trusts in the dog. It is based solemnly in the process of trial and error, learning what is wrong, but it does not TEACH. Learning can happen without teaching, but you can't teach the dog by punishing it from something it does. In order to teach you must use positive reinforcement. Teaching is taking the pupil towards the target by giving it cues and tips and praising it from it's efforts. Teaching is telling ”now you are doing right. Do it again”.  

tools to avoid

When trying to raise a dog to behave like a modern dog citizen should, one often stumbless across different training tools. Some of these tools, however, have nothing to do with actual training. They are tools that are supposed to punish the dog from doing something, and they trust in the dog understanding to avoid certain habits it gets punished from.

E-collar is a tool that gives the dog an electric shock when it does something not desired. It may be used to shock the dog when it leaves the area or it may be used when the dog barks. The collar will first make a beeping sound and then shock if the dog continues doing undesired things. This does in some cases cause results, but those results are not based on training the dog. They are based on letting the dog get hurt by the collar until it either learns what to avoid or will learn to stay completely still and silent because it is afraid of another shock. E-collars cause pain, they can cause fear and anxiety and their use is forbidden in many countries by the law. Dogs that have been wearing E-collars also suffer from apathy more than often. Apathy is a state where the dog does nothing, because doing nothing for certainty doesn't hurt it. After all, dogs usually don't connect the pain to for example a bark. They may connect the pain to entering a certain room, or moving, or panting. Whatever the dog sees, smells or hears during the shock may be connecter to the shock rather than the actual reason, for example leaving the yard.

Spray collars are much like E-collars, but they stray scent or air when the dog performs unwanted tasks. No matter they don't hurt the dog, softer dogs can become skittish because of them. There is also a risk for the dog connecting the spray to something completely different than it was meant to. If it happens to bark to the neighbor and gets sprayed, it may as well connect the neighbor to the spray and start to dislike the sight of the neighbor. Spray collars are sometimes used as last resorts to dogs that keep barking indoors, but the results they provide wary from success to an even worse problem.

Prong collar is a collar of metal, usually, that has blunt edge spokes in it. Whenever the dog oulls, the spikes press against it's skin, causing discomfort and it some cases where the dog launches in the leash for one reason or another, even serious injuries. Just like E-collars and spray collars, prong collars do not teach the dog to walk nicely. They teach the dog pulling hurts. That may give results, but one must think how the results were obtained. Dogs also tend to connect hurting with the collar and once the collar is removed, the dog walking nicely beside the owner may be all over the place all of a sudden. It was taught nothing. It still doesn't know how to walk properly in the leash. It just knows not to pull when the prong collar is on. Just like shock collars, prong collars are also forbidden in many countries.

borderline tools

Many anti-pulling harnesses or muzzle collars make the pulling uncomfortable for the dog. They don't hurt, but they feel odd and the dog finds it easier to move, and more pleasant to move, when it doesnät pull. These tools used alone without any kind of training often produce the same result as the prong collar – the dog keeps pulling as soon as the harness is gone.

To avoid this, tools like this require the dog also being praised from good behavior. This way it does not only learn not to pull when the harness is on but that it is expected to walk nicely with a loose leash.

Tools like these are tools that are supposed to help with controlling the dog while teaching it to behave properly. If the dog is large and it may cause problems with pulling during the training, it is better to use good anti-pull harnesses than risk the owner getting seriously injured when his 78kg mastiff decided it wants to go full speed over the street to greet a yorkie.  
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good tools

Treats and toys.

Seriously. Find what motivated your dog, or any animal for that matter, and use that in teaching. Praise good behavior and coach the dog towards something you want it to do. Praise it when it does right. Treat it with food or a moment of play. Positive reinforcement in the fastes and also most long lasting of teaching methods. Dogs are selfish things that do whatever benefits them and causes them pleasure. It is faster and more effocoent to praise good behavior than just plain punishing from wrong.

A properly timed punishment or command is also a good tool. One must of course remember the dog should never be hurt, but in most cases things don't go as they go in books. You can turn your back to a bouncing chihuahua, but I don't recommend it with a pyrenean. You must make the dog stop it's harmful behavior and if it doesn't respond to a high sound, for example, and you can't leave it on it's own, you must gain control. In many cases this means physically touching the dog, holding it in place, preventing it from acting idiotic and scolding it.

Dogs do need discipline. There are dogs you don't ever need to punish or scold, and dogs that need it all the time specially when they are young. See what your dog can handle and never cross the line. Discipline should not hurt. Pain or fear caused by the owner results in losing trust. With dominant, hard dogs it can also be potentially dangerous as they may answer to pain with force and what started as a play will turn into a fight. Never fight with your dog. You are a human being, and the dog knows it. We do not need our teeth to gain authority. You can't win a dane in fight if the dane decides to fight you. So don't make it. Control it, be an authority, but don't become an enemy. Pain creates an enemy.  
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Those who leave omelas

Dogs are in many ways like us people when it comes to learning. They do things that benefit them and avoid things that don't or that cause them harm. They are usually curious and they may do things that are perfectly normal to a dog yet highly disliked by us people. In moments like that teaching the dog a new way to behave requires knowing the dog you work with, knowing what motivates it and knowing why it does what it does. Dogging a hole in the garden is fun for the dog, it gets rewarded by it's own mind when it digs a hole. To make it stop one must not only make digging the hole more unpleasant than pleasant (scolding) but also offer something else to do. That way it doesn't only get told digging a hole is wrong but that doing something else is actually more beneficial.

In the end there are many tools in the dog world that work, but one must ask oneself with what cost do they work and if they actually teach the dog anything. There is no fastlane to a perfectly trained dog, unfortunately. It may feel tempting to use some tool that promises fast results, but ask yourself at what cost does it provide those results and if there is a possibility it actually makes the problem worse or even creates a new problem.

We expect pretty much from our dogs. Just remember, when you were 12 months old, you could hardly form words and communicate with your parents and you still pooped your pants. No matter the dog develops faster, there is only so much you can learn in a short period of time.

Give time. Give opportunities. Raise your dog so it wants to try new things and please you rather than lay down afraid of another shock of pain.   
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Raw Food Diet - feed your dog like it's a dog

11/6/2017

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I have always been very keen on learning how I can improve the life and health of my dogs. Food is one big factor in how healthy and how long a dog lives. There are dogs who eat ”bad” food their whole lives and still live long, but those dogs are to be considered very strong individuals that could have maybe done even better with proper diet. It is also quite often, from my experience at least, that modern breeds that have been selectively bred by people for a long time and are not as original as some older breeds do better with stuff like wheat, corn and everything with sugar in their diet. Original breeds that are still relatively closely related to wolves and original stock have more problems digesting things that were not meant for dog's digestive system (once again, this is just my own speculation and something I have noticed over the years).  
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Carbohydrates

The use of carbohydrates in dog food is often explained with the need of sugars. Sugars are essential for the brain, which is correct. The dogs, however, are able to form glucose out of fat (the process is called gluconeogenesis), and therefore they do not need a special source of carbohydrate in their diet. The reason why dogs and wolves can use some carbohydrates and turn them into energy is because their prey in wild consists of plant eaters. While eating their prey they can sometimes consume parts of the undigested plants eaten by the prey animal. Therefore their digestive system can use that source of energy to some extent. In most commercial dog foods the amount of carbohydrates is as high as 30%-70%. It is not natural for dogs.

The most common problem created by excessive use of carbohydrates is obesity, along with problems like diabetes. A dog is just plain and simply not made to use that much carbohydrates. However, because dogs CAN use carbohydrates for energy to some extent, and because the sources of carbohydrates are cheaper to use for the companies, commercial dog foods often use lots of sources of carbohydrates as part of their ingredients.

It is often recommended that puppies are not fed low-carb diets, however many companies producing low-carb diets have puppy foods. There is no real reason to why puppies should have high level of carbohydrates in their food if they are offered enough protein and they get all the supplements they need to grow.

Carbohydrates are not to be mixed with fiber, that does indeed serve a purpose in food. It is, however, not needed in great amounts. A little goes a long way.

Damn it - it's yeast

Another problem often caused by carbohydrates, and the reason why I am writing this post, is yeast.

Afghan hounds are prone to yeast. It's a common thing in the breed due to the breed's ”originality” and because of their long, quite heavy hanging ears. It is possible a dog developes yeast because of humidity, but it's even more common because the dog gets too much sugar from it's diet.

Yeast needs sugar to live. The yeast infection of a dog is simply an overgrowth of the natural bacteria the dog already has in it's normal flora. It's usually a symptom of the imbalance of digestive system, either because of allergies or inability to use as much carbohydrates the dog is fed.

”Diet is the foundation of health. The way you nourish your dog is either going to help his immune system manage yeast, or it's going to feed a potential or existing yeast overgrowth situation.” - healthypets.mercola.com

So quite simply, if your dog has yeast, you should take a look at it's diet. Are you feeding your dog a food it can process, or are you expecting it's system to digest food that is actually not appropriate for it's species? Before you go on trying million different hypoallergenic kibble, take a moment and consider the possibility of going raw.
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raw food diet

Raw food diet does not cure cancer, nor does it do miracles, but sometimes it can change the life of a dog. This is because most dogs benefit from being fed like dogs should be fed – getting low carbohydrates and lots of protein and fat.

Allergies are always a symptom of an immune system failure, however if your dog is ”allergic” to wheat or gets yeast from too much sugar, it is not to be considered suffering from immune system failure but simply having a digestive system of a more original canine. The fact some dogs are better using carbohydrates and dealing with sugars is not a reason to call the others allergic. Allergy is something caused by an overactive immune system failing to see what is to be considered a threat and what is not. Yeast is simply an overgrowth of bacteria that feed on sugars (however, in some cases it is caused by allergies).

Raw food diet is not feeding raw bones and hoping the dog survives (that is actually called BARF and it's not healthy for the dog. It provides mostly calcium with the loss of everything else). It is feeding raw MEAT. Bones are actually quite small part of any canine's diet, and therefore they shouldn't be too dominant in raw feeding either. In some cases you can't use bones at all, but you can still feed your dog raw meat as long as you prove the source of calcium.

What does this benefit, then?

Well, obviously it's the most natural way to feed a dog! Most dogs do great with raw, most do great with getting some raw and then getting kibble. Some dogs that have digestive system problems may be bad at using lots of fat and therefore some very rare cases may benefit better from a high quality kibble than from raw food. This is totally alright, as long as the kibble fed is good quality. I myself avoid kibble with corn, rice, potatoes or sweet potatoes, as they are high in sugar and sugar is exactly what I don't wish to have in my dog's diet.

Raw food is mostly just protein and fat, and with added supplements (such as vitamisn A, D and E, calcium and zinc) it answers to the basic need of a dog. Your dog is a meat eater. Take a look at it's teeth – are those made for biting rice or ripping the flesh of a prey? Often dogs that are fed raw have more energy. This is simply because they can use their food faster and better.

Raw is what nature meant for canines to eat. 
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http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+1659&aid=655
http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2011/05/03/eating-these-foods-can-make-your-dog-itch-like-crazy.aspx
http://www.katiska.info/


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